EcoBlog Tembo Kijani

EcoBlog about Beach, Safari, Nature and Life in the African Bush

Umweltwächter–Watchman for the Environment

While doing homeschooling the other day with our daughter, we came across the topic of saving the environment. A tree trunk was introduced to us by the name of Hugo, and he is a watchman for the environment. The student should figure out how to save the environment, but as it’s a German homeschool we are using, the topics were very Europe-oriented like separating waste into different bins and recycling. Though these also apply to our ecolodge to a certain degree, I found it most interesting that our daughter made the connection to how we live here and run an ecolodge like collecting rain water and saving energy.

On the days after studying this at school, she went around being herself a watchman for the environment and gave out warnings to our employees just as not throwing garbage into the ocean. She really enjoyed these lessons.

I think we in the Western countries all know these lessons – we are taught at school, on TV, etc. And these are small and easy lessons, nothing complicated, so that even primary school students can easily grab them – separate your garbage, turn off your electronic devices and lights if not needed, shut off the shower when shampooing, not wasting food, using recyclable packaging materials, and so forth. But most of the time we are so busy and lazy that we just don’t bother to buy only exactly as much food as we need or to first use up the things we have in the fridge, or to take the half minute to separate the garbage into the different bins that we all have at home. And of course it’s nicer to keep the hot shower running than to turn it off, or to have the house with all lights on although we are only sitting and watching TV in a small corner.

If we could just put a little bit more effort into our daily lives to help the environment, and take the five minutes a day to adjust our lifestyle a bit instead of reading another article (or blog) about being eco, we might start to make an actual difference.

Why Saadani is a Gem of a National Park…

We’ve been to some of the national parks in the so-called northern circuit of Tanzania in the last month, and honestly? We prefer Saadani. We went to Ngorongoro crater with the expectation of hundreds of other cars, but it was quite empty, so this was not something that disturbed us. Still, it has the touch of a zoo with the crater walls as the fence. It felt as if the animals were presented on a silver platter to you, no searching for the wildlife in hide, and the animals were really too used to the cars driving around the roads; sometimes we’d even had to honk to get the zebras out of our way, they wouldn’t care to move until the car would be less than half a meter from their behind. The lions were just laying under a tree and wouldn’t even bother to look up to check who stopped. We found it a very unnatural behavior and just not really wild anymore.

With this said, I think that Saadani has really a lot to offer, especially for those who do not just want to make marks on their checklist of wildlife seen, but to really get an African experience. Let me give you some points – and I will not mention the typical slogan of “where bush meets beach”:

  • Saadani has a big variety of wildlife to offer: giraffes, elephants, lions, hippos, crocodiles, hartebeests, waterbucks, reedbucks, buffaloes, wildebeests, bushbucks, yellow baboons, vervet monkeys, black- and white colobus monkeys and other more difficult to spot species such as eland, zebras, leopards, hyenas, the rare Roosevelt’s sable antelope, porcupines and aardvarks.
  • Saadani is one of the few places in Tanzania where you can do a boating safari on a river to see hippos and crocodiles really next to you (and not standing next to a smelly pool).
  • With more than 300 bird species spotted and identified in the park, ranging from water birds to eagles and vultures to tiny sunbirds, Saadani makes a good spot for bird lovers as well.
  • The landscapes are stunning – Saadani has about everything from candelabra trees to thick forests, acacias and savannas to mangrove systems, Marula trees, open savannas, high grass, flat salt pans and then the view to the Indian ocean on some hills.
  • This park is not on the standard itinerary, so you’ll meet very few visitors during your game drives – if you love to watch the animals all by yourself, you’ll love it.
  • Because of its mostly thick vegetation, there are hardly any open savannas where you’d need binoculars to see whether you just spotted a buffalo or an elephant. The animals will be really close to you and they’ll always check if you are not a danger to them. You’ll see animals behaving naturally and right next to you.
  • If you like to be active on your safari as well, then this is the right place: it’s not only sitting around in the car, but it’s an adventure to find the animals – track their footprints and droppings, check in which waterholes is still some water left, listen to the noises and smell the scents – sometimes the herd of buffalos is just behind the next scrubs.

Saadani is definitely not a “zoo” experience, but rather a reminder of safari 50 years ago. If you love adventure, seclusion and totally wild nature, this place is for you.

Here is why what we loved especially about last year – Enjoy!


Honeymooners’ Paradise


Now you are married and you finally have some time to be away from the hustle and stress of planning, running around, getting ready and at the same time keeping your families and friends happy. Now it’s the time that you should enjoy – only the two of you! Here are some reasons why Tembo Kijani is the honeymooners’ paradise and you should spend this unforgettable time in our ecolodge.

You want to have lots of time for yourself, just the two of you, without seeing anybody, enjoying long strolls and romantic dinners? – Nobody else here around, the rooms are totally separated from each other, and the only noise you’ll hear are the waves of the ocean.

You want to be at this remote stretch of beach with coconut palms, where you can look right and left and see no one for miles and miles? White sand, blue sea and just for yourself without annoying beach boys bothering? – This is the place – white sand beach, no reefs, no rocks, no sea urchins, two fisherboats per day, low tide is still close so you don’t have to walk kilometers to get to the sea.

You want to enjoy great meals, sweet and individual rooms, and great service? – I’m sure we can spoil you with this and more – our German chef preparing beautiful meals every evening, all the rooms are individually designed and built in a green way and we are always around to make your stay perfect.

You want to experience Africa and go on safari? – Come and discover with us Saadani National Park, a really unique experience; it will be only the two of you and the driver/guide in the car. Tell him to stop whenever you find a romantic spot to just enjoy the scenery or let him explain to you about the nature and wildlife in this park.

Just sit back, enjoy a beautiful start into your life as a married couple and let us spoil you!

Long stretch of untouched beach - paradise for every (newly-wed) couple

Long stretch of untouched beach – paradise for every newly-wed couple

No. 1 Rule for Green Travel

If you are travelling in third world countries, like Tanzania for example, then there are many ways of travelling green – as many as there are different aspects and focuses of sustainable travel. Not all of them are always possible and not all of them apply to every place on earth, so it all depends on where you go and how you travel, but in my opinion there is one thing that everybody can and should take to heart everywhere: Avoid plastic!

Besides the obvious reasons that we always hear in the western hemisphere, like high pollution in the production process, lots of toxins, mostly one-time use and hence lots of waste, there are quite a few more that especially apply to third world countries.

The basic problem in these countries is, that people are used to using materials for packaging, food etc. that they’d just throw away afterwards and it would compost by itself – banana leafs, paper, raffia bags, peel from fruits, etc. And people continue doing it, but nowadays they throw plastic bottles, plastic bags, plastic covers and so on after using them. And well… in most of these places there is no such thing as garbage collection of any kind (reasons for this range from missing infrastructure to just the point that it’s not worth to invest in something like this), so the only option would actually be to collect the garbage yourself and burn it in the end. But the mindset for this is still missing.

In the big cities garbage became such a big problem that people themselves started to burn it – and that’s how it smells; it stinks horribly, it’s dirty and the air is even more polluted than just with old cars, simply because there is no garbage collection system. When the rains start and the cities are flooded, and especially Dar es Salaam being located on the Indian Ocean, the water takes all the garbage out to the sea and the current will spread it even further up and down the coastline. This is also true to other places being located close to a river or the sea – a lot of the garbage ends up eventually in the ocean and then right on your beach holiday in the good case or in the stomachs of turtles and birds in the bad case.

And whereas three years ago here in Tanzania you could  only buy Coca Cola in glass bottles (which you’d have to drink right away in order to give it back to the shop – deposit wouldn’t work), nowadays you can only get plastic bottles – it’s easier: less transport, lighter and of course more comfortable, just take it and throw it away afterwards.
So as a tourist, it of course won’t make a huge difference on the whole if you buy plastic or not, but it will make an impressionRaffia baskets on the people who sell it to you, if you refuse plastic bags in stores or ask for your drinks in a glass bottle, especially if you explain a bit about the reason behind it. It will also help if at home you will avoid plastic, because it will reduce demand and make the
industry reduce its plastic production – and this will not only affect you in the western hemisphere, but every other place as well.

Wildlife at the lodge–conservation or endangering?

Here in Tembo Kijani we have quite a lot of different animals, which call this place their home – dik-diks, red duikers, vervet monkeys, syke’s monkeys, nile monitors, genet cat, civet cat, sometimes a serval cat, mongoose, squirrels, rabbits, yellow baboons, bush babies, lots of birds, amongst them palm-nut vultures and fish eagles, sun birds and more. We love watching them and seeing that they are feeling at home here at the premises, but of course it’s not always easy to spot them; those who have been here already, know what I am talking about. But of course we would love to show also our guests the wildlife in Tembo Kijani, because it is quite amazing to experience them live and enjoy the monkeys right next to you.


Not every guest is lucky to see them, some of them have a close encounter with the bush babies at night, some see a grey kestrel sitting in front of their mirror in the morning, some find hermit crabs in their foot bath and some have a few small sun birds flying through their rooms. Not every guest is happy with this, but that’s part of nature and being on vacation in an ecolodge. Well, of course that’s not usually the case and we are really tempted to do everything to get wildlife and guests closer to each other. In many cases people do the mistake and are tempted into feeding wildlife, not from bad intentions, but good ones. And surely this “temptation” also exists here, just wandering around with a banana, seeing the monkey and wanting to throw a piece for him to get more used to us. But that’s not the way one should behave, especially we, as a lodge that is concerned about wildlife and conservation. From this feeding, the animals develop a sense that humans are harmless, which probably in most cases is true. But one shouldn’t forget that a lot of the wildlife here is still hunted, either for meat or simply because they are ruining the crops of the farmers. So the harmless intention of simply seeing wildlife and feeding it, can endanger them more than conserving them.

So, being eco, being environmentally responsible, is not only not to destroy the environment, but also not to interfere or disturb –  this also applies to the behavior of wildlife that is encountered. So here at Tembo Kijani wildlife is still wild and with a bit of luck and patience, you will manage to see some of the animals here anyway.

5 Aspects behind the scenes of running a Green Hotel

Many times you’ll see eco hotels, eco lodges, eco vacation etc. and you are wondering what is it that makes this place eco? Since there is no real universal rating like stars in a regular hotel (or Michelin stars for restaurants), where you’d know what to expect, but more different ratings from different organizations, you’ll mostly see only on your vacation, how and why the hotel you booked, is actually eco. For Tembo Kijani we try on our website to give a bit of first information of our green efforts (See Our Dream), but of course in the matter of time, there are more aspects and more ideas also from our side, how to improve our sustainability. So for this I wrote this blog and will tell you a bit more about five details, that you won’t see when you are here, because sometimes it’s the little features behind the scenes that make a difference.DSC03998

  1. Keeping the natural environment – The way we found the plot, we want to keep it, disturb as little as possible and if we can, reforest without end. For us this meant
    • first to find the empty spots on the plot (or the ones with only dead shrubs) to build the guest units and other buildings – took a lot of crawling in the bush on all four and scratched arms and legs
    • when building, we tried our very best to bring in the materials so that we won’t have to flatten the shrubs, trees etc and to have each unit self-sufficient – so no long piping, cables and so on. And yes, all the 4000ft of wooden deck (and the same amount of screws) was carried through the bush down to the beach
    • now using waste water for watering plants and planting indigenous trees and shrubs – as a reward we love watching wildlife running around between the Bandas and taking shelter from the hot sun – dik-diks, mongoose, monkeys, lots of birds, genet cats, monitor lizards and even red duikers
  2. Detergents – In Western countries often you have the option of buying eco detergents; unfortunately here in Tanzania, and especially down here in the bush, you are happy if you get any kind of detergent, and mostly they are not good. But wherever we can, we use household remedies. So for stains in white clothes, we simply use the sun – works perfect. For limescale baking powder works great and even better than anything else we could find. For the last few months we have also started to use a wash ball for our laundry – doesn’t take out the dirt from our clothes  after greasing the car (also regular washing powder doesn’t), but it’s doing the job for everything else. Yes, the laundry doesn’t smell as if I added softener, but it doesn’t drive allergic people crazy either.
  3. Community work – We are not doing what other people understand by community work – we are rather of the opinion “help for self-help”. So we only employ people from the next village, give them a good and reliable income and have them enrolled in the social security system. But it’s not only employment, but rather training and giving a chance to learn a profession. So for most of our employees, we would have to start from scratch, as they are living in a typical African village without running water or electricity; most of them haven’t even been to Dar es Salaam and Pangani is the big city. So teaching housekeeping starts with explaining the bathroom, and teaching kitchen work starts with the explanation that you can also eat carrots raw in a salad. But in the end we can see that our employees start to develop a will to learn and to improve their lifestyle or even start a little business of their own.
  4. Waste (or no waste) while Shopping – when we are getting our groceries, we not only try to buy local produce, but also to avoid as much waste as possible, because unfortunately here in the bush, we don’t have waste collection (even in the big cities you don’t). So, we buy of course in big quantities, use products that come in glass jars instead of plastic bottles, and our fresh products like fruits and vegetables are brought in raffia baskets. What you as our guest will see from it, are the alu flasks that we use to provide drinking water for free instead of selling bottled water.
  5. Generator’s electricity – I am reading lots of articles about why renewable energy is not reliable, why it is expensive and not effective and so forth. And I can only agree, totally true. Because, with sun and wind (as the most common sources of renewable energy and also used here in Tembo Kijani) you rely on sources that you cannot control, you cannot control how much electricity you produce, as opposed to fossil fuels. BUT you can use it wisely and use it when you have it and hence reduce the use of fossil fuel. The same applies to everybody, also our lodge – of course we have a generator and we have to use it once in a while, but we do our very best to minimize the usage of it and make most of the electricity that we get from our solar panels and wind turbine – and by the way keeping our place nice and quiet without the noises of a generator because of electricity mismanagement.

We are happy to live here in Tanzania in the bush where we have the challenges to be eco, waver all the options available and actually be creative to find the best one fitting to this place.

Witchdoctors and other Swahili Stories

A few weeks back Eyal came back home from grocery shopping in Pangani and as usual with the newest gossip – news around here really go by bush drums and not newspaper as you’d think. But this time the story was actually about Tembo Kijani – good to hear what’s going on in our own lodge.

So the story went that “Tembo Kijani”, meaning we, are going to a witchdoctor (you have to know that the Swahili Coast here is quite famous for that, and the next witchdoctor is located in a village around 40km away from here) for him to do voodoo on the lodge, so that we are getting more business and the lodges around less. According to the story it worked – and I have to admit, yes, the end of last year was quite busy. But we really had a good laugh about it and told that the only “witchdoctor” we go to, is God himself, and that yes, He really blesses us with work.

A few weeks later just before the start of the rain season, one of our employees came in the morning to work with the story that there was a baby, just born, in a village around 80km from here, and that he had verses of the Quran written all over his body, and he talked already and prophesied that there will heavy rain coming next Monday; but not clear rain, rather dark orange that no one will be able to drink. He was really confused and a bit panicked. To him it seemed totally normal that something like this would happen. In the end, there was no rain (although by now the rain season has started) and most probably also no Quran-tattooed baby talking right after birth.

Even though these stories are pretty funny, it shows quite a lot about the way people here on the coast in Tanzania think: most things are a mystery, rain doesn’t come according to the weather, and neither success doesn’t come from hard work.

Let’s hope that at least for our employees we can make a difference and prove them that success comes from hard work and not cheating; and if we can teach them a bit about the connection between deforestation and rain, then it’s even better.

Mr. Tembo Kijani, Mrs. Tembo Kijani, Ms. Tembo Kijani–and how it all started

If you are walking through Pangani or Saadani and its surrounding villages, and will ask someone if they know Mr. Tembo Kijani – yes, of course… And what’s his real name? – That information will be a bit more difficult to get probably. And probably it’s quite the same that you know the ecolodge Tembo Kijani and can find some information on it, but who are the people behind it? Well, here we’d like to introduce ourselves at least a bit Smile

We are “family” Tembo Kijani, or with the name that you’ll find in our passports – family Peled. This is Eyal (dad), Sarah (mom) and Timna. We came to Tanzania around four years ago with the dream to build something ecological, which will have an impact on our surrounding and our guests.

Originally Eyal is from Israel, Sarah is from Germany and Timna – well … both. When we arrived here in the first place, we got to a really untouched place with only a well and a small hut that we had built for ourselves. We brought a solar panel to be able to charge our phones and after a while also a stove on gas. And slowly slowly (pole pole as you say in Kiswahili) we brought more and more civilization to Tembo Kijani – each of us had his/her own favorite part, that we missed most. Eyal enjoyed the day, when he could finally shower with boiling hot water (we got our first solar water heating system), Timna drew on her walls, once she had her own playing room (don’t worry – we simply didn’t paint it in the first place), Sarah spent the entire day doing laundry once the washing machine had arrived, but probably all of us were really excited about having fresh milk and keeping it that way with a fridge. Coffee in the morning (– before only chai) keeping vegetables fresh and having the option of storing meat and fish. WOW! Life is good!

Since then we really became part of the place and probably Tembo Kijani reflects our character and what we love – lots of nature, simplicity, but also the luxury that we missed when we arrived (so, hot shower for everyone, clean sheets and laundry service and cold milk for the coffee in the morning, but please no painting in the rooms Smile)

And I know – a picture is missing, but we only take pictures of the wildlife in Saadani Winking smile But if any of you have a good picture of all of us together, feel free to send it and I’ll add it to the post.

Surprising Safaris in Saadani

Although we do a lot of safaris in Saadani National Park (of course we wZebras and Giraffe in Saadaniould always love to do more – we are not getting tired of it), it seems that each time we go, we see something new. Yesterday we went only for a half-day game drive with our guests and saw the five zebras again – they are apparently still around since February, still only 5 of them, still together with giraffes and still extremely fat to be honest.


Around a month ago we just went for a few hours in the northern part of Saadani (Genda Genda), which is great for spotting Sable Antelopes, and just on our way out, three porcupines crossed the road and headed off into the thick grass – really funny the way they run with their short legs and their quills swaying from side to side.

But the most encouraging and surprising encounter we had on September 23 just when we were coming back from Dar es Salaam and only crossed through Saadani National Park to get back home. Shortly after the Wami Gate (in the south of the park, the closest entrance to Bagamoyo and Dar es Salaam), we spotted around 15 elands, including at least one small one and one that looked pregnant. So not only that we finally saw them for the first time in Saadani, but also with encouraging news that there will be more in the future.

I am very much looking forward to our next safari – excited to see which other animal is hiding in Saadani and is only waiting to be discovered!

Every-day Wildlife

We love wildlife – and we enjoy to see it again and again, discover new animals and watching their behavior. Luckily we don’t always have to go to safari in Saadani National Park for this, but just being at Tembo Kijani, we really see a lot.

It’s not only the crabs at the beach or the birds and butterflies whirling around, but also with a bit open eyes and ears that you can spot monkeys and gazelles. Usually we have some vervet monkeys playing around between the Bandas and a pack of Sykes monkeys jumping from tree to tree next to a big Cashewnut tree. Walking a bit outside the lodge you will encounter yellow baboons.

In the afternoons an African Fish Eagle couple passes by and rests on one of the dead coconut trees; also a Palmnut Vulture flies by quite frequently and lands on the beach to annoy the crabs.

Of course all sorts of other birds can be seen as well – usually you hear them very clear, but spotting them in the green of the trees can be a bit difficult.

But most of all it’s fun when you walk through the lodge, hear some noises in the bush, wait a little bit and then see a dik-dik or a red duiker coming out. If you stand really still, they won’t really notice you and just go about their business as usual.

We are in the middle of adding some small waterholes on the plot in the middle of the bush, so that for the next dry season there will be plenty of water and maybe then we’ll have some new four-legged visitors as well.

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